What fascinates Dolce and Gabbana today is the spontaneous sense of free style new generations are embracing with the candor that comes from not being weighed down by the excess baggage of experience and knowledge. “The idea of a homogeneous, visually coherent wardrobe is obsolete, because anything goes, everything is the opposite of everything,” they mused. “What’s important is the personality, the attitude, a way of being.”
To that end, the collection read as their ode to the radical style perfected by Gen Z’s natural acumen for self-representation. Never afraid to go over the top, the signori stilisti roamed this territory with gusto. Proportions were on one hand exaggerated and almost hyperbolic—black-and-white-logo-ed, puffed-up piuminos floating around the body like inflatables, or regal, majestic, sweeping full-length greatcoats exposing a smooth bare chest and a pair of briefs, a diamanté necklace thrown in for added glitz. On the other, the suit, one of the designers’ pièces de résistance, was given a tailored makeover: cut with their signature sharpness, the newest version of the tuxedo was proposed in a shiny gold fabrication, with a marked waistline and shoulders molded and expanded into a jutting shape.
Glamourous eco-fur also featured prominently. Having discontinued the use of real fur, Dolce and Gabbana didn’t give up on the sensuality and visual impact that it can convey, which jibes with their sense of style. But it’s also part of their pledge of making their company fully sustainable in the future. “Sustainability for us doesn’t only apply to technology, sourcing or production,” they said. Their high-quality eco-furs are actually produced in small artisanal ateliers by the same furriers who previously worked on their real-fur offer. “Sustainability for us is also protecting the knowledge embedded in traditional techniques,” they explained. “Preventing that expertise from being lost and securing the work and the future of artisans is something we’re incredibly proud of.”