Fumito Ganryu Fall 2022 Menswear Collection


Named Homeostasis—after the term referring to the maintenance by living things of the conditions best optimized for their continued living (at least that’s how I read it)—this collection was about finding balance in apparently imbalanced conditions. Hence, explained Fumito Ganryu via translator down a challenging internet connection, the positioning of his models at the point on a podium where two axes intersected. He said: “It is like a graph or a radar chart where you would see the x- and y-axes crossing. It’s looking right at the middle of that, where you have that neutrality—it’s not too much in one direction.”

But what were these axes measuring? Between which opposing forces was Ganryu seeking worn harmony? Two apparently oppositional—but maybe not—factors were digital life and real life. Ganryu said that a handsome piped diamond-quilted jacket and waistcoat came in a color designed to stand out in avatar form but emanate a reassuring classicism in the physical. Other dichotomies included volume and texture (Ganryu is ace when it comes to monastic streetwear shapes) and form and function (see the MA1 parka whose pockets served as armholes).

The collection featured odd little quirks of creative evolution, like the above-the-knee slicing and fold that only ever seemed to feature on the right leg. Materials included a rib knit in appealing purple blended from recycled polyester and virgin wool, and a pair of handsomely volumized olive pants—cut in a nylon that Ganryu described as “normal”—were given a technical treatment in order to conjure a shimmery, reflective shine. Like last season, some pieces were light emitting. I especially enjoyed the oversized purple duffle coat worn over base-layer leggings, an athleisure–meets–Paddington Bear intersection that seemed weirdly reassuring in its appealing oddness.

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